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The
Most Extensive Collection of Ball Python Mutations in Captivity
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NERD
Herpetocultural Library
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| Name:
African rock python Scientific name: Python sebae AKA: "Rock python" |
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General
Information
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| Distribution | ||
| This large boid is found throughout Africa, south of the Sahara Desert | ||
| Wild Status | ||
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Widespread
throughout its range but diminishing in numbers. Large animals are becoming
rare due to man's impact on the species. African rock pythons are used
extensively for the skin trade, with skin export quotas upwards of 9300
for the year 2002. When encountered in the bush, the African rock python
is often immediately killed for its skin, meat or the simple fact that
it is a snake. |
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| Description | ||
African rock pythons are light brown or grayish-brown with transverse blotches and dark bands on the body; lateral (side) pattern is speckled gray, brown & black. The African rock python is a snake with huge size potential and a bad reputation. This is the largest of the African constrictors, and rocks often behave more aggressively than other boids. True captive born babies are generally tamer and make reasonable "pets". Avoid large wild caught specimens, as they are typically nervous and may never establish themselves as suitable pets. If raised properly in captivity and handled frequently rock pythons may become tolerant to handling and remain tame. Initially an animal may be apt to bite (use gloves) due to fear but with handling, trust will be established and biting should cease. A very powerful constrictor, an animal to be respected. |
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| Size | ||
Hatchlings
approximately 14 - 18"+/-. Females average 16'+, males typically
top out around 12' in length. This is a species that can attain sizes
of approximately 20 feet in length & weigh over 200 lbs. |
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| Lifespan | ||
| African rock pythons may live 30 years or more in captivity. | ||
| Color Mutations | ||
Color
& pattern mutations of Python sebae include patternless, hypomelanistic,
and various forms of aberrant striping that may or may not be genetic. |
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Captive
Maintenance Guidelines
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| Difficulty Level | ||
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Advanced.
Due to their large size and well-known tendency for aggression, we do
not recommend African rock pythons for a first pet-quality snake.
We feel that these animals are better kept by experienced herpers accustomed
to dealing with large and sometimes unpredictable boids. Unfortunately,
the low price & ready availability of African rock pythons often
leads to a stressful, unrewarding situation for both novice keeper and
snake alike. In the right hands, these snakes can become trusting, tractable
charges and can provide a very rewarding challenge to the keeper with
suitable experience; still we suggest looking to other species first
for an animal with better "pet snake" qualities. |
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| Enclosure | ||
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Enclosures can
be as simple or elaborate as one is capable of caring for. Remember
that the more "stuff" you put in a cage, the more "stuff"
you have to clean & disinfect on a regular basis. It is also important
to keep in mind that African rocks are extremely strong, powerful animals,
and that a secure, well-locking cage is a MUST! That
said, there are many different enclosures that work well for rock pythons,
including but not limited to: plastic sweater boxes (i.e. Rubbermaid),
melamine racks, Freedom Breeder cages, and any of the commercially available
plastic-type reptile cages, (i.e. those from Vision Herp & other
similar manufacturers). Glass aquariums & tanks are adequate; keep
in mind that the screen tops on such enclosures can make it difficult
to maintain humidity levels. Also refer to our Snake Caging care sheet
for more information. For large rock pythons, providing as large a cage
as possible is important - remember that no matter how large the snake,
an enclosure must be able to accommodate the thermoregulatory needs
of the animal inside. There must be enough room for your snake to go
between a cool side & a basking spot as necessary, and this should
be kept in mind when planning a cage for a big African rock python.
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| Substrate | ||
There
are a few substrates that work well. Newspaper is the cheapest &
easiest with regards to cleaning & disinfecting: out with the old,
in with the new. Cypress mulch is great for controlling humidity, but
remember that too much humidity can be as detrimental (if not more)
as too little. Never use any substrate containing cedar, as this is
deadly to reptiles! |
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| Temperatures & Heating | ||
Provide
your rock python with a basking spot of 88-92 °F and an ambient
(background) temperature of 78-80 °F. The ambient temperature should
not fall below 75 °F. It is vitally important to KNOW the temperatures
at which you are keeping your snake(s). DO NOT GUESS!!
A great way to monitor temps is to use a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer
with a probe. Stick the thermometer to the inside of the cage on the
cool end and place the probe on the warm end, and you'll have both sides
covered at once. There are several ways to go about heating the enclosure: undercage heating pads, ceramic heat emitters, basking bulbs (both regular daytime & red "night" bulbs) are just a few. With heat emitters & bulbs it is necessary to really keep an eye on the humidity within the enclosure, especially if combined with a screen top, as both will dry the air quickly. Use thermostats, rheostats and/or timers to control your heat source. Do not use hot rocks with snakes as they often heat unevenly over too small of a surface area & can cause serious burns. |
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| Humidity | ||
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African rock pythons are often found in both marshy areas and burrows - places with a higher ambient humidity. Providing a humidity box for your rock python will not only serve to give your snake access to a more humid location, but can also double as a secondary hide box which should also be utilized & appreciated. This consists of packing a plastic container with damp sphagnum moss (think well-wrung-out wash cloth to gauge moisture), cutting a hole in the top or side & placing it in your python's enclosure so that it can access the box as it pleases. For larger African rocks, you can use a giant Rubbermaid tote if the enclosure allows the space in which to do so. If not, then it is possible to raise ambient humidity by placing a mixture of cypress mulch & sphagnum moss towards the warmer end of the cage, and misting this bedding down frequently. Keep in mind that if you have a screen top on the enclosure you will probably want to cover it most or all of the way with plastic, a towel or some other means of keeping moisture from escaping. This is also where having proper, reliable ambient temperatures (back to that thermometer!) is important, as warm air holds more moisture than cool air. You want the enclosure to be humid, not WET. A soggy cage can eventually lead to bacterial & fungal infections and consequently, death. |
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| Lighting | ||
Supplemental
lighting is not necessary for this species, but if used should run on
a 12/12 cycle, meaning 12 hours on & 12 hours off. Continuous bright,
overhead lighting is stressful to snakes, especially a nocturnal serpent
such as this one. |
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| Water | ||
Always
make fresh, clean water available to your rock python. The size of the
water dish is up to you. If it is large enough for the python to crawl
into and soak, sooner or later your snake will make the most of the
opportunity, and most seem to enjoy a nice soak from time to time. Ensure
that the bowl is not too deep for juvenile animals - 1" - 2"
or so will suffice. Snakes of many species will defecate in their water
bowls from time to time, so be prepared for cleaning, disinfecting &
a water change when necessary. It is often beneficial to have a spare
water bowl for such occasions, so that one may be used while the other
is being cleaned. |
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| Accessories | ||
As
African rock pythons have a tendency to be apprehensive & sometimes
aggressive animals, providing an environment in which they feel secure
is beneficial to this herpkeeping experience. Making a hide box - maybe
even a couple of them - available to your snake can help this process.
Provide one on each end of your python's enclosure so that it doesn't
have to choose between temperature & security. Clay flowerpots,
plastic flowerpot trays, and commercially available hide boxes all work
quite well. For big specimens, taping dark-colored paper (i.e. butcher
paper) over one end of the enclosure to reduce visibility is a quick
& easy way to create a "hide spot." Ensure that the method
you choose does not interfere with your ability to handle the animal
in a safe & responsible manner. |
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| Feeding | ||
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Feed your snake an appropriately sized rodent weekly. A baby rock should begin feeding on small adult mice or rat crawlers. They can eat rats from the time they are young - starting off with rat pups or "crawlers" for younger snakes & moving up in size as the animal grows. At 3', the snake is large enough for weanling rats. At 4', it is typically capable of consuming adult rats. Do not handle your snake for at least a day after feeding, as this can lead to regurgitation. Most rock pythons have a terrific feeding response and are generally pretty easy to convert to frozen/thawed or pre-killed rodents (see Snake Feeding caresheet). Never leave a live rodent unattended with ANY snake. Feed at least once every 10 days, especially with younger rock pythons. While it is somewhat possible to control a snake's growth rate through maintenance feeding, remember that feeding too infrequently will leave you with a hungry snake that is constantly searching for food, resulting in stronger feeding responses during interaction with handlers. On the other hand, frequent feedings of 1 - 2 times weekly will result in quick growth, so It may be wise to consider how large you wish the snake to get over a certain period of time. This is a species where developing proper feeding habits is crucial to safe handling, as African rock pythons are incredibly strong constrictors & a force to be reckoned with when hungry. Never handle rodents and then handle a snake; you may be mistaken as food. As the snake grows to lengths exceeding 6' it may be wise to feed the snake only dead rodents by placing prey items in the enclosure for the snake to discover, as this may encourage more gentle food acquisition. |
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| Maintenance | ||
Spot-clean
your snake's enclosure as necessary. When feces/urates/uneaten prey
items are present, remove them as soon as possible. Clean & disinfect
the water bowl on a weekly basis. Depending on cage conditions, remove
all substrate & cage furniture and completely disinfect using a
5% bleach solution approximately every 30 days. Rinse the enclosure
thoroughly and allow to dry before replacing cage furniture & your
snake. |
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Basic
Reproductive Info
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African
rock pythons reach sexual maturity anywhere from 18 months (males) to
4 years (females) of age. Males may breed at 6' in length, and females
9'+. Animals should be well established and in excellent condition before
any breeding is attempted. Breeding season in captivity typically ranges
from November to March. Stop all feeding at this time. Breeding may
be induced by reducing daytime photoperiod to 8 - 10 hours, dropping
daytime temps to low 80's (F) & nighttime temperatures into the
mid 70's (F). Introduce the female into the male's cage. Misting the
animals with water may also help to induce breeding activity. Females
typically shed 14-20+ days after ovulation; eggs are typically laid
within 30 days of post-ovulation shed. Clutch size for rock pythons
can be upwards of 80+ eggs, with anywhere from 20 - 40 being the norm.
At an Incubation temperature of 88 - 90F (optimal), these eggs take
70 - 80 days to hatch. |
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Notes/Comments
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African
rock pythons have had a bad reputation for years due to the aggressive
nature of wild-caught - and even some captive bred - specimens. Their
size and power make them a potentially dangerous animal. By the same
token, their inquisitive & seemingly intelligent nature can make
this rock python a rewarding animal to keep. As with any large constrictor,
sound experience & familiarity with boid behavior is an asset to
those considering keeping these animals. |
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