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The
Most Extensive Collection of Ball Python Mutations in Captivity
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NERD
Herpetocultural Library
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| Name:
Colombian rainbow boa Scientific name: Epicrates cenchria maurus AKA: N/A |
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General
Information
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| Distribution | ||
| This semi-arboreal species is often found in trees & forested areas in Colombia, South America. | ||
| Wild Status | ||
Colombian
rainbow boas are not widespread throughout their range, and habitat
destruction & human encroachment threaten wild populations. |
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| Description | ||
Rainbow
iridescence, placid disposition and limited size make this an attractive
constrictor to hobbyist. Hardy as long as humidity requirements are
met, tolerant of cooler ambient temperatures than many other boids.
Semi-arboreal (climbs) and often nocturnal (active at night). Young
animals tend to be nervous but in captivity they generally calm and
make reasonable pets. Newborn maurus are heavily patterned,
as the animal grows much of this patterning fades until an even brown
coloration is reached. |
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| Size | ||
Hatchlings
approximately 12"+/-. Females average 5', males average 4' adult
size. Maximum size for this species is around 7 feet in length. |
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| Lifespan | ||
| Colombian rainbow boas may live 30 years or more in captivity. | ||
| Color Mutations | ||
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Color
& pattern mutations of Epicrates cenchria maurus include patternless,
hypomelanistic and "axanthic." There are also T+ albino specimens
of this species reported. |
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Captive
Maintenance Guidelines
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| Difficulty Level | ||
Intermediate.
Easy for the keeper who has some boid experience, we would not recommend
Colombian rainbows to the beginning herpetoculturist. Colombian rainbow
boas are not as humidity-dependent as their Brazilian counterparts,
but still require specific temperature & humidity to thrive. Babies
are nippy & defensive until tamed. This is a good "next step"
for the keeper who has successfully managed other species, i.e. Colombian
boa constrictors. |
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| Enclosure | ||
Enclosures
can be as simple or elaborate as one is capable of caring for. Remember
that the more "stuff" you put in a cage, the more "stuff"
you have to clean & disinfect on a regular basis. That said, there
are many different enclosures that work well for Colombian rainbows,
including but not limited to: plastic sweater boxes (i.e. Rubbermaid),
melamine racks, Freedom Breeder cages, and any of the commercially available
plastic-type reptile cages, (i.e. those from Vision Herp & other
similar manufacturers). Glass aquariums & tanks are adequate; keep
in mind that the screen tops on such enclosures can make it difficult
to maintain humidity levels. Also refer to our Snake Caging care sheet
for more information. Juvenile Colombian rainbows seem to do well in
smaller enclosures that make them feel more secure; a small snake in
a big cage can become overwhelmed & stressed. They also need higher
humidity than adults, and this can be easier to control in a smaller
enclosure. For adult Colombian rainbows an enclosure measuring 36"
x 18" x 16" will be sufficient. As rainbow boas are semi-arboreal,
a vertically-oriented cage will allow your snake more room to climb
& is something to consider if you have the space to accommodate
this sort of setup. . Remember that ALL enclosures must allow for a
proper thermal gradient that the snake can utilize, with a hot spot
on one end and a cooler spot on the other. |
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| Substrate | ||
There
are a few substrates that work well. Newspaper is the cheapest &
easiest with regards to cleaning & disinfecting: out with the old,
in with the new. Cypress mulch is great for controlling humidity, but
remember that too much humidity can be as detrimental (if not more)
as too little. Never use any substrate containing cedar, as this is
deadly to reptiles! |
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| Temperatures & Heating | ||
Provide your Colombian
rainbow with a basking spot of 88°F and an ambient (background)
temperature of 75-85 °F. The ambient temperature should not fall
below 75 °F. It is vitally important to KNOW the temperatures
at which you are keeping your snake(s). DO NOT GUESS!!
These snakes will neither tolerate wildly fluctuating temperatures,
nor temperatures over 90 degrees for extended periods of time. A
great way to monitor temps is to use a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer
with a probe. Stick the thermometer to the inside of the cage on the
cool end and place the probe on the warm end, and you'll have both
sides covered at once. There are several ways to go about heating the enclosure: undercage heating pads, ceramic heat emitters, basking bulbs (both regular daytime & red "night" bulbs) are just a few. With heat emitters & bulbs it is necessary to really keep an eye on the humidity within the enclosure, especially if combined with a screen top, as both will dry the air quickly. Use thermostats, rheostats and/or timers to control your heat source. Do not use hot rocks with snakes as they often heat unevenly over too small of a surface area & can cause serious burns. |
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| Humidity | ||
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Providing proper humidity for Colombian rainbows
is important, but as stated previously too much humidity can be as problematic
as too little. First off, let's establish "humidity" as the
amount of moisture in the air. To provide your snake with a humidity
level of 50% - 60%, you have a couple of options.
1. Use cypress mulch or a similar substrate that can be misted & is mold-resistant. Cypress is good for this as it turns a tan color when dry & a rich brown when wet, giving a visual cue as to when it needs to be dampened again. 2. Make a "humidity box" for your snake. This consists of packing a plastic container with damp sphagnum moss (think well-wrung-out wash cloth to gauge moisture), cutting a hole in the top or side & placing it in your boa's enclosure so that it may access the box as it pleases. Keep in mind that if you have a screen top on the enclosure you will probably want to cover it most or all of the way with plastic, a towel or some other means of keeping moisture from escaping. This is also where having proper, reliable ambient temperatures (back to that thermometer!) is important, as warm air holds more moisture than cool air. You want the enclosure to be humid, not WET. A soggy cage can eventually lead to bacterial & fungal infections and consequently, death. |
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| Lighting | ||
Supplemental
lighting is not necessary for this species, but if used should run on
a 12/12 cycle, meaning 12 hours on & 12 hours off. Continuous bright,
overhead lighting is stressful to snakes. |
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| Water | ||
Always
make fresh, clean water available to your rainbow boa, as they have
a tendency to drink copiously. The size of the water dish is up to you.
If it is large enough for the boa to crawl into and soak, sooner or
later your snake will make the most of the opportunity, and most seem
to enjoy a nice soak from time to time. Ensure that the bowl is not
too deep for juvenile animals - 1" or so will suffice. Snakes of
many species will defecate in their water bowls from time to time, so
be prepared for cleaning, disinfecting & a water change when necessary.
It is often beneficial to have a spare water bowl for such occasions,
so that one may be used while the other is being cleaned. |
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| Accessories | ||
One
cage accessory that is beneficial to your rainbow boa is a good hide
box...maybe even a couple of them. These are sensitive snakes that appreciate
& utilize a hide spot. Provide one on each end of your snake's enclosure
so that it doesn't have to choose between temperature & security.
Clay flowerpots, plastic flowerpot trays, and commercially available
hide boxes all work quite well. |
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| Feeding | ||
Feed
your Colombian rainbow boa an appropriately sized rodent weekly. By
"appropriately sized" we mean prey items that are no bigger
around than the snake at its largest point. Rainbow boas can eat rats
from the time they are young - starting off with rat fuzzies or "crawlers"
for younger snakes & moving up in size as the animal grows. Do not
handle your snake for at least a day after feeding, as this can lead
to regurgitation. Rainbows are generally pretty easy to convert to frozen/thawed
or pre-killed rodents and have a great appetite and feeding response
(see Snake Feeding caresheet). Never leave a live rodent unattended
with ANY snake. |
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| Maintenance | ||
Spot-clean
your snake's enclosure as necessary. When feces/urates/uneaten prey
items are present, remove them as soon as possible. Clean & disinfect
the water bowl on a weekly basis. Depending on cage conditions, remove
all substrate & cage furniture and completely disinfect using a
5% bleach solution approximately every 30 days. Rinse the enclosure
thoroughly and allow to dry before replacing cage furniture & your
snake. |
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Basic
Reproductive Info
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Colombian rainbows reach sexual maturity anywhere from 18 months to 4 years of age. Breeding size occurs at lengths of 3 - 5'. Breeding season in captivity typically ranges from November to March. Stop all feeding at this time. Animals should be well established and in excellent condition before any breeding is attempted. Breeding may be induced by reducing daytime photoperiod to from 12 -14 hours to 8 hours, dropping nighttime temperatures in the 68 - 72 F range, and daytime temperatures into the low 80's F. Introduce the female into the male's cage. Misting the animals with water may induce breeding activity. Use of multiple males in a breeding situation may prove beneficial to breeding success. Females typically shed within 30+ days of ovulation. After 115 - 135 days of gestation, female Colombian rainbows may give birth to litters of 10 - 30+ live young. These snakes are bred in captivity with continuing regularity |
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Notes/Comments
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Colombian
rainbow boas can be quite a joy to experience. CB specimens typically
become docile individuals that are fun to care for and interact with.
As these snakes are being bred more and more in captive situations their
popularity has begun to grow. Rainbows make an excellent choice for
the intermediate keeper looking for an attractive, alert, yet medium-sized
serpent. |
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