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The
Most Extensive Collection of Ball Python Mutations in Captivity
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| NERD
Herpetocultural Library |
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| Name:
Carpet Python |
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| General
Information |
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| Distribution | ||
The
Irian Jayan carpet python is found in woodland areas in New Guniea.
The Jungle carpet python is found in rainforests in the northeastern
corner; Atherton tableton, Cairns and Mission Beach portions of Australia
for example. The coastal carpet python is found along the entire eastern
coast of Australia. |
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| Wild Status | ||
| None
of these species are known to be in jeopardy in the wild. |
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| Description | ||
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All of these pythons are slender, semi-arboreal species that tend to be nippy when they are young. Once they outgrow this nippy stage they have wonderful curious dispositions. Jungles and coastals are only available as captive born specimens as Australia does not allow exportation. With regards to the Irian Jayans. captive born specimens are preferred as imported individuals have shown to make poor captives. |
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| Size | ||
Hatchlings
approximately 12”+/-. Irian Jayan: 4-6’, although larger specimens (8’) are known. Jungle Carpet: 4 -6’, although larger specimens (8’) are known. Coastal Carpet: 6-9’, although may reach 12’. |
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| Lifespan | ||
| Carpet pythons may live 25 years or more in captivity. | ||
| Color Mutations | ||
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There are no known pattern mutations in the Irian Jayan and Jungle carpets, aside from specimens that have dorsal striping. With regards to the Coastal carpet the only known variation is the Jaguar (regular, hypomelanistic, red hypomelanistic, and banana) all of which derivate from a single pairing of animals. These mutations are quite rare and not commonly found in the marketplace. |
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| Captive
Maintenance Guidelines |
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| Difficulty Level | ||
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Beginner.
Definitely a choice for a beginner, assuming a healthy specimen is chosen.
Keeper must have a general knowledge of snake husbandry. |
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| Enclosure | ||
| Enclosures
can be as simple or elaborate as one is capable of caring for. Remember
that the more “stuff” you put in a cage, the more “stuff”
you have to clean & disinfect on a regular basis. That said, there
are many different enclosures that work well for carpet pythons, including,
but not limited to: plastic sweater boxes (i.e. Rubbermaid or Sterilite),
melamine racks, Freedom Breeder cages, and any of the commercially available
plastic-type reptile cages, (i.e. those from Vision Herp & other
similar manufacturers). Glass aquariums & tanks are adequate; keep
in mind that the screen tops on such enclosures can make it difficult
to maintain humidity levels. Also refer to our Snake Caging care sheet
for more information. Juvenile carpet pythons seem to do well in smaller
enclosures that make them feel more secure; a small snake in a big cage
can become overwhelmed & stressed (i.e. not eat). Provide your carpet
with an enclosure that allows for some climbing along with branches
or perches and your carpet with readily demonstrate their arboreal tendencies.
Not all carpets are inclined to perch but a majority of individuals
will use perches if provided. Enclosure sizes of 36"x18"x24"
can make extremely attractive displays for adult carpet pythons, and
work very well for mature snakes. Remember that ALL enclosures must
allow for a proper thermal gradient that the snake can utilize, with
a hot spot on one end and a cooler spot on the other. |
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| Substrate | ||
There
are a few substrates that work well. Newspaper is the cheapest &
easiest with regards to cleaning & disinfecting: out with the old,
in with the new. Cypress mulch is great for controlling humidity, but
remember that too much humidity can be as detrimental (if not more)
as too little. Never use any substrate containing cedar, as this is
deadly to reptiles! |
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| Temperatures & Heating | ||
Provide
your carpet with a basking spot of 86-88 F and an ambient (background)
temperature of 75-78 F. The ambient temperature should not fall below
75 F. It is vitally important to KNOW the temperatures at which you
are keeping your snake(s). DO NOT GUESS!! A great way to monitor temps
is to use a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer with a probe. Stick the
thermometer to the inside of the cage on the cool end and place the
probe on the warm end, and you’ll have both sides covered at once.
There are several ways to go about heating the enclosure: undercage heating pads, ceramic heat emitters, basking bulbs (both regular daytime & red “night” bulbs) are just a few. With heat emitters & bulbs it is necessary to really keep an eye on the humidity within the enclosure, especially if combined with a screen top, as both will dry the air quickly. Use thermostats, rheostats and/or timers to control your heat source. Do not use hot rocks with snakes as they often heat unevenly over too small of a surface area & can cause serious burns. |
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| Humidity | ||
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Providing proper
humidity for carpet is important, but as stated previously too much
humidity can be as problematic as too little. First off, let’s
establish “humidity” as the amount of moisture in the
air. To provide your snake with a humidity level of 40% - 60%, you
have a couple of options. |
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| Lighting | ||
Supplemental
lighting is not necessary for these species, but if used should run
on a 12/12 cycle, meaning 12 hours on & 12 hours off. Continuous
bright, overhead lighting is stressful to snakes, especially nocturnal
animals. |
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| Water | ||
Always
make fresh, clean water available to your carpet python. The size of
the water dish is up to you. If it is large enough for the python to
crawl into and soak, sooner or later your snake will make the most of
the opportunity, and most seem to enjoy a nice soak from time to time.
Ensure that the bowl is not too deep for juvenile animals – 1”
or so will suffice. Snakes of many species will defecate in their water
bowls from time to time, so be prepared for cleaning, disinfecting &
a water change when necessary. It is often beneficial to have a spare
water bowl for such occasions, so that one may be used while the other
is being cleaned. |
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| Accessories | ||
The
one cage accessory that is essential to a happy carpet python is a good
hide box...maybe even a couple of them. These are sensitive snakes that
appreciate & utilize a hide spot. Provide one on each end of your
python’s enclosure so that it doesn’t have to choose between
temperature & security. Clay flowerpots, plastic flowerpot trays,
and commercially available hide boxes all work quite well. In addition
branches or PVC perches can be added to the enclosure, while not necessary
they do seem to contribute to overall well being of the snake. |
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| Feeding | ||
| Feed your carpet
an appropriately sized rodent weekly. By “appropriately sized”
we mean prey items that are no bigger around than the python at its
largest point. Young animals typically prefer a rodent that is little
larger you would think they could eat. Most hatchling carpets will
easily consume a “hopper” mouse, a “hopper”
is a mouse that has a full coat of hair and has begun to move around
quite readily. Most baby carpets are not inclined to eat prey that
has no hair. Once your carpet has grown to the size of being able
to consume “peach fuzzy” rats attempt to convert them
over. Carpets, for the most part, have a general adversion to rats,
so this portion may be somewhat tricky. If you are able to convert
them while they are still young you have better chances than down
the road. Feeding mice to a full grown carpet can get quite costly!
There are numerous methods which seem to work in the conversion process, |
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| Maintenance | ||
Spot-clean
your snake's enclosure as necessary. When feces/urates/uneaten prey
items are present, remove them as soon as possible. Clean & disinfect
the water bowl on a weekly basis. Depending on cage conditions, remove
all substrate & cage furniture and completely disinfect using a
5% bleach solution approximately every 30 days. Rinse the enclosure
thoroughly and allow to dry before replacing cage furniture & your
snake. |
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| Basic
Reproductive Info |
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Carpet pythons reach sexual maturity anywhere from 18 months to 4 years of age. Breeding size occurs at lengths of 4'+, depending on subspecies. Irian Jayans will breed as young as 18 months of age and a length of 4’, Jungles in the 4’- 6’ range and coastals in the 6’- 8’ range. Breeding season in captivity typically ranges from November to March. Stop all feeding at this time. Animals should be well established and in excellent condition before any breeding is attempted. Breeding may be induced by reducing daytime photoperiod to 8 - 10 hours and dropping nighttime temperatures into the mid 70's. Introduce the female into the male’s cage. Misting the animals with water may induce breeding activity. Clutch sizes range from 10 to 40 + eggs depending on the size/age of the female. Remember obese snakes don’t make good breeders. The eggs should be incubated at a temperature of 88 - 90F (optimal) and take roughly 60 days to hatch. All subspecies are being bred in captivity quite readily. |
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| Notes/Comments |
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While
sometimes overlooked in favor of other species, carpet pythons are regarded
as a great pet python in herpetoculture, and with their docile nature
& low maintenance requirements it is easy to see why. Acquiring
captive bred specimens will help ensure a successful snakekeeping experience,
and the lovely coloration and semi-arboreal nature of these animals
can make for a beautiful herpetocultural display. |
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