Reticulated pythons are somewhat slender for their length & develop a very muscular girth that tends to stay round, instead of flattening out as in other large constrictors. These giant pythons are extremely variable, with net-like or rope-like patterning on a silver or tan-silver background. The dorsal pattern is typically the base color of the snake and bordered in black and yellow, orange or brown. The lateral blotches are light in color. The entire body radiates an iridescent sheen.

Wild-caught Retics tend to be extremely nervous and defensive animals that will bite to escape handling. On the other hand, captive-bred specimens often mature into docile, intelligent animals that are a pleasure to interact with if the keeper is properly set up to do so. his is a species where choosing a good, CB animal can make a huge difference in your snake-keeping experience.

Enclosures can be as simple or elaborate as one is capable of caring for. Remember that the more "stuff" you put in a cage, the more "stuff" you have to clean & disinfect on a regular basis. That said, there are many different enclosures that work well for smaller reticulated pythons, including, but not limited to: plastic sweater boxes (i.e. Rubbermaid), melamine racks, Freedom Breeder cages, and any of the commercially available plastic-type reptile cages, (i.e. those from Vision Herp & other similar manufacturers). Glass aquariums & tanks are adequate for smaller specimens; keep in mind that the screen tops on such enclosures can make it difficult to maintain humidity levels. Also refer to our Snake Caging care sheet for more information.

Juvenile reticulated pythons seem to do well in smaller enclosures that make them feel more secure; a small snake in a big cage can become overwhelmed & stressed. For large retics, a minimum cage size should allow the snake to stretch out at least half its own length, and longer is always better. Also, if you must choose between the width of the enclosure & the height, always choose the extra width, as your retic will appreciate the extra floor space. Remember that ALL enclosures must allow for a proper thermal gradient that the snake can utilize, with a hot spot on one end and a cooler spot on the other. No matter the age of the snake, reticulated pythons are extremely strong and should have a secure cage with a strong lock. Accommodating the enclosure requirements for adult reticulated pythons is something that MUST be considered prior to acquiring one of these giant constrictors.

Feed your snake an appropriately sized rodent weekly. A baby retic should begin feeding on small adult mice or rat crawlers. They can eat rats from the time they are young - starting off with rat pups or "crawlers" for younger snakes & moving up in size as the animal grows. At 3', the snake is large enough for weanling rats. At 4', it is typically capable of consuming adult rats. Do not handle your snake for at least a day after feeding, as this can lead to regurgitation.

Most reticulated pythons have a terrific feeding response and are generally pretty easy to convert to frozen/thawed or pre-killed rodents (see Snake Feeding caresheet). Never leave a live rodent unattended with ANY snake. Feed at least once every 10 days, especially with younger retics. While it is somewhat possible to control a snake's growth rate through maintenance feeding, remember that feeding too infrequently will leave you with a hungry snake that is constantly searching for food, resulting in stronger feeding responses during interaction with handlers. On the other hand, frequent feedings of 1 - 2 times weekly will result in quick growth, so It may be wise to consider how large you wish the snake to get over a certain period of time.

This is a species where developing proper feeding habits is crucial to safe handling, as reticulated rock pythons are incredibly strong constrictors & a force to be reckoned with when hungry. Never handle rodents and then handle a snake; you may be mistaken as food. As the snake grows to lengths exceeding 6' it may be wise to feed the snake only dead rodents by placing prey items in the enclosure for the snake to discover, as this may encourage more gentle food acquisition.

As your reticulated python grows you will need to located progressively larger prey items - i.e. large rabbits, etc. Finding a source for appropriate prey items prior to needing them will prove extremely beneficial in keeping your retic, especially with regards to budget and feeding schedule. Contact other retic keepers or members of a local herp society to help point you in the right direction. Feeding large adult retics is not always cheap, and this cost should be taken into consideration prior to acquiring this species.

NOTE: Prior to attempting any breeding with your reticulated pythons, make sure you are 100% certain of the gender of each snake! NEVER introduce two mature male retics into the same enclosure, as they are highly combative to the point of severely injuring or killing one another!

Reticulated pythons reach sexual maturity anywhere from 18 months to 4 years of age. Breeding size occurs at lengths of 7 - 9' (males) & 11'+ (females). Breeding season in captivity typically ranges from November to March. Stop all feeding at this time. Animals should be well established and in excellent condition before any breeding is attempted. Breeding may be induced by reducing daytime photoperiod to 8 - 10 hours and dropping nighttime temperatures into the mid 70's. Introduce the female into the male's cage. Misting the animals with water may induce breeding activity. Females typically shed 14+ days after ovulation; eggs are typically laid within 34 - 49 (average 38) days of post-ovulation shed. Clutch size for retics ranges from 10 - 80 + eggs. At an Incubation temperature of 88 - 90F (optimal), these eggs take an average of 88 days to hatch.